Hello, my name is not Stella and I did not get my groove back

The next woman who asks me if I met a man on my trip might get hit upside the head. I went to a screening last night at CAA and was asked the question several times. When I said no, I could see the disappointment in their faces. No one asked about the art, food, the city only about hooking up. I started to feel bad. Perhaps my trip was not "successful" because I failed to meet the man of my dreams or at least the fling of the week.

Believe me I would like to end my strike (or at least have the two sides meet at the bargaining table) and have some romance in my life. It just doesn't seem in the cards for me. I tried online dating and it was not fun. Men here are really picky and I rather be rejected to my face not via email.

I have struggle with the whole organized religion "thing" but now might be the time for me to call for some heavy duty help. That is right, I'm talking about God and Jesus. I know with everything that is going on the world the last thing these two need to focus on is my little situation but seriously I don't know what else to do. I cannot go yet another year without a single date.

Treadmills vs. walking around Rome

This jet lag is not fun. I felt like I was drunk all day at work yesterday. My office loved the biscotti I brought back.

Yesterday I woke up at 4:00 a.m. so I made a pizza sauce. I bought the pizza dough at Trader Joe's and made the pizza for dinner last night. A pizza stone really makes a difference, it was delicious.

Today woke up at 2:00 a.m. then at 5:00 a.m. I went to the gym at 5:30. I was bored to tears walking on the treadmill. I tried to visualize walking around the cobblestone streets near Piazza Navona instead but it didn't quite work.

I told my sister the next time I go to Rome I want to be looking at apts. for a long term stay. It is just too hard to come back.

Some random observations during my Rome trip

Orange pants - Takes a confident man to rock pants that color.

The Burger King chicken strips ad - I don't know why but everytime the commerical came on I laughed my ass off. Something about the chickens speaking Italian cracked me up.

The Norbit ads - Even more offensive seeing them overseas. Enough with these types of movies. I am sick of sexist and/or closeted black men wearing fat suits to portray the worst stereotypes of black women.

People walking arm in arm - I saw men, women, kids, couples and a few grandkids with their grandparents walking arm in arm. I think it's sweet. One of my fondest memories is walking around Piazza S. Maria locking arms with my friend Giampiero.

The word "tesoro" - It means treasure and I heard it over and over again in Rome as friends said it to each other.

Not a single news report on Britney or Anna. I went to the supermarket in L.A. yesterday and that is when I found out Anna has been buried (finally) and K-Fed and Brit's mom have basically kept Brit away from her own kids. Poverina, good thing she is in rehab.

Hair issues - So when I move to Rome where will I get my hair done? Last year through a friend I met one black women who lived in Rome for a semester during college. She was in town visiting our friend and she told me she and her friends had to go to Milan for a touch up. I stopped relaxing (to make it straight) my hair a while ago but I still need to get hair cuts or what if I decide to twist it or press it? The few local black women I saw had bad wigs or jacked up hair.

Walking - It was nice to be back in a city where people walk. There is something very alienating about being in a car all the time.

Food - Not seen as a means to an end but something to be enjoyed. I don't know anyone in Rome doing the Zone, South Beach, Jenny Craig etc.

Waiters - They don't tell you about their recent auditions.

Sex in the city - I was there during the winter and Rome was still sexy.

L'utimo giorno (the last day)

Sigh! Okay someone is messing with me. As if I didn't already love this city, today is one of those perfect spring days. I had great weather all week. Today it's around mid to high 70s and sunny. All the outdoor caffes are packed.

I got lost once again this morning. I was trying to check out the area just behind Trastevere and ended up near some big park (Dora Villa area?). I walked all the way back home then had a quick lunch outside at Caffe Marzio (sp), which is on the S. Maria in Tastevere Piazza.

Last night hung out with Ettore in the Piazza Navona area. Earlier in the day I went to Santa Vittoria and it was closing hours again, so I will have to see that church another time. I had lunch at 'Gusto Osteria. I had the Orechiette with Clams and some kind of greens (maybe the infamous chicory?). Seriously, this dish was so good I almost passed out. Alright that statement was a little melodramtic but the food was that delicious. While I was there the owner put on Barry White's greatest hits.

Between Barry's (may he rest in peace) deep sexy baritone voice and the food it was sensory overload. Speaking of sexy, there was no exchanging of numbers (or anything else)with members of the opposite sex on this trip but I am continuing on my quest to bring "sexy back" to my world in L.A. So what if no one else notices, the days of moping, whining, worrying about the future, obsessing about the past, and being on strike must come to an end.

I will be flying all day tomorrow, so I must go and pack.

Ciao bella Roma.

pasta grigia, scooters and window shopping

Yesterday was a very good Friday. I checked out the cool little shops on Via Governo del Vecchio (I think that is the name of the street). It's near Piazza Navona and I first read about the area in the New York Times a couple weeks ago. Some of the clothes are very pricey and are made by local designers. Given my budget I only window shopped at those stores. I did buy some great smelling soap and some cute earrings that weren't expensive.

I had lunch at Maccheroni in Piazza Coppelle. I had the fantastic pasta grigia which is Rigatoni with wine wine, bacon, cracked black pepper and goat cheese.

I worked up quite the appetite because I kept getting lost in the side streets around Piazza Navona and couldn't find the restaurant. After lunch I walked around the Prati area (near the Vatican), then back home.

Okay, so my usual Friday night routine in L.A. is as follows:
All my friends are exhausted from work. They have scripts to read or notes to do. I stay home make some dinner, read a script or two to get a jump on the weekend read, then I watch "What Not to Wear", the local news until maybe 10:30 then I go to bed.

This was my night last night:
Three different friends calling at around 6:00 p.m. asking what I was doing. I already had plans with my friend Giampiero. We met during my first trip to Rome through a friend of a friend back in L.A. He used to live in L.A. and still has an apartment there. We went to dinner aroung 8:30 (very early for him). The restaurant is called Ripa and it's in Trastevere. The food was outstanding! We had clams and mussels to start and the waitress insisted we try (on the house) the sea snails which were incredible. I haven't had snails or conchs in a long time (so I was not really into it) but once I tasted the butter and garlic delights I was very happy.

G. picked the wine, I can't remember the name but it was a white Siclian wine. I had the white fish w/fresh tomatoes and chicory. I was told you can't get chicory everywhere in Italy. I wonder if I could find it in the US? It's a bitter green with spicy kick. Around 11:00 we asked for the check (if you don't ask they might not bring it. It's considered rude to give you the check while you are eating) and G. told me to not to even try and reach for my wallet.

Next stop. One of his agents (he is an actor but not crazy) and his partner had a party and we stopped by for dessert. I walk past this building in Trastevere everyday. Who knew that behind the huge, heavy doors was such a place? Freaking incredible. I also met some of the most attrative men in my life at the party. All were actors....and gay. Lots of couples. Everyone was so friendly and took the time to explain what was going on with the San Remo music festival.

Final stop. G., myself and some of the women from the party (all straight, smart, beautiful...and single) went to a new bar called Etabli. It's near Piazza Navona. I had to get on G.'s scooter with a dress on. Second time this week I have been one (Ettore and I rode to our meeting on Thursday) and I am not comfortable flying through the streets with drivers who talk with their hands all the time.

If you are in Rome check out this place, Etabil. It has only been open for 2 weeks. It's a bar/lounge with plenty comfy chairs, magazines, books, really cool but without the attitude. I had to speak more Italian last night since the women spoke only a little English. One of our waitresses was an American expat who has lived in Rome for 18 months. She was very friendly. We finally ended the night about 3:15. Again G. refused to let anyone pay.

I said to G. I have to remind myself that I'm on vacation and if I lived here I would probably fall back into the same routines. He pointed out that everyone I met worked a full day yesterday and the women we went to the bar with, an important casting director, a senior agent, and a production designer, have very busy careers and yet find the time to see their friends and have a life. Point taken.

An American in Rome

I have really lucked out with the weather. Today is the first cloudy day, not bad for winter weather.

I had a nice lunch meeting yesterday with Ettore and three producers. Where did we eat? At a Sushi place called Zen in the Prati area. I felt like I was back at Sushi Roku in L.A. except for the everyone speaking Italian thing.

It was stunning out so I walked back home. The area around the Vatican was very crowded. Later that afternoon I met the bella ragazza Shelley. Check out her blog, At Home in Rome. It's very smart, interesting and entertaining (just like Shelley). We went to the bar Friends (it has nothing to do with that fake NYC show. LOL) which is a great place to chill out. I had such an incredible time, hearing more about Shelley's experiences and what brought her to Rome in the first place. She was so encouraging about making the move. I noticed both she and Tracie B speak flawless Italian. Of course it helps that they live in a place where it is spoken.

I met Denver for dinner who has lived in Italy since grad school. She went to NYU undergrad for film and received her master's in film here. She is a screenwriter and a casting director. We have a mutual friend back in L.A. If you are in Italy you can see the latest film she casted "The Night Before the Exams - Today" which was directed by once of her classmates. We met last year when I was here and it was good to see her and catch up again. We went to a very good place off Campo dei Fiori. I have no idea what the name of it is. As we left at 11:00 and some people were walking in for dinner.

It is hard for me to explain to my non-Italophile friends back home how my first trip to Rome changed my life. I have traveled to other foreign countries but I was surprised by Rome. I felt to my core that for some bizarre reason this is the place I am supposed to live. Talkng to expats here makes me realize I am not crazy. I told Denver last night, that on my first morming here I walked to Piazza Navnona. It was very early and the sun was just peeking over part of the Piazza. I can't explain how happy and moved I was that very moment.

See Naples and Die

I can't remember which famous artist/writer said that quote. He was talking about how incredible the city is and after you see it you can pass on. I thought of that quote often yesterday as I tried to cross the street.

First I digress, while walking to the internet place I bumped into Matteo (the friend who was in L.A. last week) at the end of my block. He lives a couple yards from my apartment. We acted like we haven't seen each other in years. Anyway I have a lunch meeting today so I could not join him and Martina for lunch.

Speaking of L.A., in the last three days of watching (I barely understand a word, the newscasters speak so quickly) the morning news on RAI I have not seen one story on Anna Nicole Smith or Britney's meltdown. It is kind of strange, they were the lead stories on the Today Show last week.

Okay back to Naples. I can't really discribe how intense it is. Naples makes Rome seem like freaking Mayberry. I walked out of the station and it was more hectic than NYC's Port Authority. The noise, the traffic. I swear most of the cross streets lights don't work and if they did, people ran the red lights anyway.

I got lost and went to Castel Nuovo. I asked the wrong man for direction to the Museo Archeloglogico Nazionale and got lost again. I finally gave in and put my life in a cab driver's hands. What an amazing city. We up these tiny side streets, went along the water, the to the Museo.

Many of the artifacts from Pompeii are at the Museo. I really enjoyed it. The "secret galley" is somewhat trippy. No kids under 14 can enter unless they are with an adult. Let's just say back then folks really liked to get their freak on. I also noticed a mosaic that the series ROME uses in the opening credits.

I met Tracie B (and briefly met Gennaro who gave her a ride) and we went to lunch at a place not far from the Museo. Of course I can't remember the name. I think it was Soprilla? This pizza was amazing. I had a great time meeting Tracie B. She lucked out that my analog self still doesn't own a digital camera. She claims she is not photogenic. Whatever. Tracie is gorgeous so I don't know what she is talking about.

After a three hour lunch (apparently, we both love to talk), we took the metro to the Chiaia area. Tracie refused to let me pay for lunch. Next time I'm treating. The metro was spotless and nobody was pushing. This area is close to the bay. Very pretty with a lot of cool shops, bars, cafes, plus the high end stores like Gucci, Prada (I am not feeling the new Prada shaggy bags. I must discuss with Sfashionista upon my return to L.A.) etc.

We walked back towards the station and then hoped in a cab. Tracie B had to remind to put my wallet anwyay pronto. I got on the wrong Eurostar. I thought my train was leaving early but I was on the express one. I paid 15 extra Euros while on the train but it was worth it. It took only an hour and a few minutes to get back to Rome.

I cannot believe how two cities so close to each could be so different. I felt like I was in another world. In the last year I have seen several travel articles on Naples, in places like the NYTs, Travel and Leisure, and Vanity Fair had one last month. I don't think Naples (the most densely populated city in Europe) is going to turn into a Disneyland time place anytime soon even with all the "it's the in place" to go to hype, which is nice. I didn't see many tourists at all, just a few Americans and British people at the Museo.

Naples is like NYC in the 70s. The energy is unreal. I found it overwhelming. It's not laid out on a grid like New York, or easy to navigate like Paris. Naples is a city of contrasts, sublime beauty next to chaos. I saw a mafia gathering for a funeral. That was interesting. The police were everywhere.

Once I left Termini, I was too busy talking on my cell phone (confirming planes for today's lunch) and got lost walking home. I passed by the Coliseum, which was so not in the right direction. I took the long way home but I didn't mind. While I was on the phone an Italian man around my age with a cane and a limp said my english was great and I had a fantastic smile. I don't why homeslice was all up in my conversation but it was pretty funny at the time.

I am sorry I am not more computer savvy and all the directions on this computer are in Italian, so I can't link to Tracie B's post. You can find it on the left under Tracie's Life Italian. She has great photos of Ischia and posts on food, wine and her version of La Dolce Vita.

Naples is molto bananas

I will have to write about it tomorrow. I am wiped out. I slept for only 5 hours last night.

I thought we were going to have an early evening last night since I was meeting my friend Ettore, his girlfriend and their 3 months-old baby boy. We went to a local cute place off Piazza Navona. Everyone had to stop and say "bello bambino". Their son is so cute, it's not right.

Around 10 we started to walk back to Ettore's car. He stopped by a bar to see if his brother is there. He is. All his brother's friends came out and checked out the baby. Another friend cames over on his scooter and I noticed he was quite cute and looked familiar. It's because it was the actor Claudio Santa Maria. Very nice guy and he scored major points with me when he complimented me on my Italian. We all stood outside and talked for a while.

The music at the bar was great, lots of Prince, Marvin Gaye, and the Police. Around midnight my friend's girlfriend said she needed to get home and get ready for work tomorrow. I couldn't believe how many people were out so late on Monday. Ettore said it was very quiet and in the Spring and Summer the streets are packed. I walked home and by the time I went to bed it was 1:00 a.m.

Tomorrow I will try to post about my day in Naples with the one and only Tracie B.

Ciao from Roma!

I realized two very important things today:

I really "heart" Rome and my Italian sucks. I swear it's worse than last year. Not taking classes for six months clearly has set me back. I went to Trenitalia at the train station to buy tickets for Napoli. I thought this should be easy enough to say in Italian. The ticket lady busted out laughing. Not in a mean way but more like, "You get an A for effort. Now we are going to switch to English."

I have spent so much time worry about the grammar my vocab is lame. I can conjugate the hell of out of a verb but I'm having trouble stringing together a sentence in italian that makes sense.

Let's see, I have been in the city for less than 24 hours and already have received some very enthusiastic "Ciao Bellas" from a couple male members of the geriatric set. Thanks Gramps. Seriously, a compliment is a compliment.

Woke up to a very nice and sunny day. I like the apartment and neigborhood I'm staying in. I wish it had internet but there is a internet place close by. The apartment is only a few blocks away from where I stayed last year. I went to the supermarket (this time I said "si" when the cashier asked me if I wanted a bag. Last year I had no idea what she was saying). I got lost walking to Piazza Navona. Unfortunately Bernini's Four Rivers Fountain is being renovated. While I stood in the Piazza, I thought, "I am just so freaking happy be back."

I walked back to Trastevere, spent some time in Santa Cecilia and "found" a small church not far away that I had not noticed before. It was pretty old and had the tiniest tower. Finally I had lunch at Le Mani in Pasta. Oh. My. God. I have been think about this stupid pasta dish for months (gnocchiette w/fava beans, cherry tomatoes and truffles) and it was as good as I remember. Waiter was very nice, winked alot. lol.

After getting my tickets at Termini, I wanted to go to Santa Vittoria church but it was closed for a couple of hours. I walked the street down past the Capital. It still trips me out to see officers with machine guns. I also think it's weird most of them are gorgeous. Is that a law? Are ugly men not allowed to apply for the academy? I wound not be surprise since employment ads here can state age requirements and that applicants be attractive. In the USA that would be a lawsuit so they don't put it in writing.

I continued on and hit the clusterfuck, aka The Trevi Fountain. Okay, this is supposed to be low season and the whole area was packed. I had to fight through the crowds to throw in my three coins.

I had my first gelato of the week after seeing the fountain. I was too tired to find San Crispino. I must have walked six miles today, therefore I am not concerned about the pasta and wine I had for lunch.

I finally made it back home and now I'm going to walk back over to Campo dei fiori area to meet a friend for dinner.

Tomorrow onto Napoli.

Vado Roma oggi ( I go to Rome today)

Last night I sat on The 10 for almost an hour. I was returning back to my apartment after going to the Spirit Awards party at Shutters in Santa Monica. This is a trip that should take 15 minutes.

I calmed myself down by repeating, "You are going to Rome, You are going to Rome". I have no idea why there was so much traffic at 6:00 p.m. on a Saturday night. La Cienega was also backed up but that was because of all the pre-Oscar parties.

I am going to try an experiment by dressing a little nicer (by L.A. standards) for my flight. I don't have to be sloppy to be comfortable.

Usually on very long flights I wore these Old Navy cargo pants and my cross trainers (as they were the heavies shoes I traveled with). I think it might be too cold and dark to go walking/jogging at 6:00 a.m. I will be walking alot during the day anyway. I'm leaving the clunky white workout sneakers at home and taking my green and grey Puma sneakers.

Off to the gym, then I have to finish cleaning and packing. I will be spending hours at LAX and six hours at Heathrow. Good thing I have plenty to read.

YOU on a Diet - Week Four

I have lost 3 and 1/2 inches from my waist. Considering last week's junk food fest this is good news.

I am going to try and maintain this size or maybe even lose another inch or two. That said, there is a plate of Cacio e Pepe (bucatini pasta with cheese, olive oil and cracked black pepper) with my name on at 'Gusto Osteria.

The timing of my Rome trip could not be more perfect

Yesterday as I was leaving the office my co-worker said:

"Please try to have a good trip. You seemed postal the last couple of weeks and I can't run as fast as I used to."

The blinding migranes are gone, so my mood is much better. I know already what I'm going to wear to the Independent Spirit Awards party, no need to stress out about it. I had a pedi yesterday, getting my brows done today and will get my manicure tomorrow morning before the show.

I have to do laundry and clean today. I like coming back to a clean apartment.

I saw Francesco's show on Wednesday. He went to Rome and Naples. He shot in one of my favorite places in the world, the Borghese Galleria. He also spent time in an underground tunnel in Naples that was incredible and kind of creepy. I am so looking forward to my trip. Sometimes I forget I'm going. Then I remember and try not to do a spastic dance, ala Elaine on Seinfeld.

Rome - one week from today

I just have to make it through a hectic week at work. There are so many things I need to do before getting on a plane.

Speaking of Rome, last night's episode was fantastic.

YOU on a Diet - week 2

I have lost 2 inches from my waist. I feel so much better. I sleep very well and I don't crave candy. I had two little cookies from the Gelson's bakery on Sunday and it was fine. I didn't feel the need to eat an entire bag.

I tried whole wheat pasta. I know it's better for you but it will take me a minute to get used to the taste. Speaking of pasta, in 20 days I plan to eat some at Le Mani in Pasta. It is one of my favorite places in Rome.

Alfonso Cuaron's CHILDREN OF MEN, I LOVE MISS NEW YORK and a cure for the post-holiday blues

Wow...I am still trying to figure out if the movie I saw was one of the most depressing movies I have seen or one that showed the power of humanity. What I do know is the movie is visually stunning and Mr. Cuaron is one of the most talented directors working in film. Period. I loved A LITTLE PRINCESS and Y TU MAMA TABIEN. I hear his HARRY POTTER (The Prisoner of Azkaban) is one of the better ones of the series. I could not get into the first one so I haven't seen any of them from beginning to end.

The premise is in 20 years or so humans are not able to reproduce and Britain is the only country left standing. Terrorists have used nuclear bombs to wipe out most of the world. Millions of refugees are pouring into England and the gov't is rounding up all illegal immigrants and taken them out. Literally. Clive Owen has to get one of these refugess transport papers. That is all I'm going to say. Despite following the movie with a Miss New York chaser I still had trouble sleeping. There is one shot alone that is worth getting the DVD for. I hope in the commentary the filmmakers explain how it was executed.

I LOVE MISS NEW YORK. Really what is there to say about this? Where did they find these men? Chance is crazy and Romance? Please. Sister Patterson, (I thought her name was Michelle), Miss New York's mom is rude. Also I wonder
how do people get tiime off from work to appear on shows like this.

This time last year I went into a major funk after spending time away and with my family. The best way to cure these blues is to think about my next trip. I booked a trip to Rome using my Frequent Flyer miles. I am already counting down the days. I am leaving the day of the Oscars. Can I afford it (I still have to pay for housing and food), not really. I do need to buy a lap top and a new couch? Yes. Instead my mental health is more important and already my mood better. Non vedo l'ora per la mia viaggio. (I can't wait until my trip) .