Bye, Bye, Berlusconi!!!!

Last night I walked over to Palazzo Grazioli (the PM's residence in Rome) with my friend Max. Max lives in L.A. but is studying in Florence for a semester.

The energy was electric and joyous. On the news there was a clip of a choir singing "Hallelujah".

I can't believe he actually resigned. It's ironic that the financial markets were responsible for his downfall, not all his scandals, not the opposition, not his low approval ratings (below 25%), or the power struggles within his coalition.

As he left Grazioli, the crowd booed and people yelled, "Shame!"

Who knows what the post Berlusconi era will look like. He's left the country in a huge mess. I think Ari Gold from "Entourage" sums up how I felt about Silvo B. (NSFW)







The buses in the background were stuck.


My friend Max.

My Very American Life, In Italy

Ciao Bloggisti,

Recently, it has become painfully clear that I don't really speak Italian.

I speak:
Restaurant Italian

I Can Get By Italian

Shelter and Fashion Magazines Italian (not to be confused with newspaper Italian. That I don't speak well)

Running Errands Italian (my butcher, the shoe repair guy, drying cleaner lady, etc. somehow understand what the heck I'm saying)


Easy Conversations With My Italian Friends Italian

I had a HUGE wake-up call the other week. I started an internship (more on that in another post) with a Italian furniture/interior design firm. Everyone speaks English, so we are able to communicate. Also, they have many international clients and vendors. I can help out with those projects.

However, it's an office in Italy. When I have to call Italian vendors or clients, I completely panic. This is not good.

My reading comprehension is decent, but I had no idea my verbal skills were so low. Then I thought about it. I speak and write English pretty much 95% of the time here.

I do have Italian friends, but I work in America. I watch American programming and read American news. I do know what is going on in Italy. However, I'm not married to an Italian and before I did not work with Italians.

If I'm honest with myself, I worry that being fluent in Italian will somehow, "throw off" my English. I'm a screenwriter working in Hollywood. I can't afford to forget words in my mother tongue.

It's easy in Rome to be lazy. There are so many expats here. Many of the shopkeepers speak some English because of all the tourists. The majority of my close Italian friends speak English.

I went to a party in Monti with a friend and her Italian friend. He said, "look around, this is why your Italian isn't stronger." Almost everyone at the party was American.

That same night I went to a good-bye party for an British-American friend who was returning to NYC. That crowd was the exact opposite, all Italian. This friend was in Italy for only a few months and spoke better Italian than I did (I had been here three years!) She's also a writer, writing in English. I can't use that as an excuse anymore.

My Italian friends switched to English because I asked them to or they sensed my frustration. I'm concerned that I sound like an idiot in Italian, so I clam up. I should just plow ahead and speak. Italian grammar is no joke. Even very well educated Italians sometimes misuse the subjunctive. I can't believe that tense shows up in childrens' books. grrrrrr

I know some expats get annoyed if you speak or try to speak Italian with them. I guess they think, "We're American why the heck aren't we speaking English?"

Well, I'm going to try an experiment, more immersion. It can't be full immersion because of the work I do. If I'm not working on my book, scripts, blog, etc. I need to be writing, reading, and speaking Italian.

Last week I watched THE GOOD WIFE dubbed and with Italian subtitles. About twenty minutes in I switched to original language and keep the subtitles. It was so much easier to enjoy the show because I didn't have to concentrate. After ten minutes I turned it back to Italian. I have to suck it up and stop taking the easy way out.

I wonder if it's useful to watch American shows dubbed in Italian, but with the English subtitles.

Anyway, I'm going to try this experiment until the end of the year. I'm curious to see if I can actually speak this language well or if I'm a lost cause.

It might mean stepping back a little from the expat scene. I'm not talking about my close friends who happen to be expats, but the larger circle of acquaintances.

My expat friends are fluent. Most of them are married to Italians and/or work with Italians. All of them have said this level of Italian is the hardest to get through.

The last two weeks, since starting my internship, I've spoken more Italian than in all of 2011. Today when I turned on the Italian news, I noticed my comprehension was better. Small steps.

Italian Driving School Diaries - A Cinquecento, La Spezia, tears, and the Autostrada

View of Lerici from La Spezia. It's a very beautiful place. However, the drive to get there was not!

Seriously, what was I smoking when I decided to drive to Piemonte?

I stopped in La Spezia to meet my friend Megan for lunch. When I stepped out of the car, my hands were literally shaking.

One friend back in America had suggested I rent an automatic. She said driving on the Autostrada was super stressful and she has been driving stick/manual all her life.

As I struggled to get from Termini Station to the Autostrada, I was close to hyperventilating. If leaving the Center was such a nightmare, what the heck was going to happen to me on the Autostrada?

I kept stalling out. I got lost. It was a big mess. I finally made to the Autostrada and it was fine. In Italy people use the left lane correctly... to pass. I stayed on the right and nobody tailgated me.

Once I got off the Autostrada to get to Megan's, all hell broke loose. Roundabouts, hairpin turns, steep hills, I was in tears.

After a relaxing lunch and gelato (thanks Megan!), I told myself to get it together. I put on Amy Winehouse's FRANK and continued on my journey.

Got lost again. I was driving toward Milano. Once I turned around and got back on the Autostrada, I thought everything would be okay.

Nope. I was wrong. I finally arrived in Acqui Terme with its zillion roundabouts in the Historic Center and ended up in a parking lot. My friend's B&B was nowhere in sight.

I called. They were probably wondering how the heck I missed their road. Hello, I've been there before. I turned around and later saw my friend's husband on the road leading to the B&B.

I know people have had trouble getting up their driveway. It's very steep. I was told to put the car in 1st gear and don't stop. If I was too nervous to try, they would do it.

After driving for hours, I decided to go for it and made it up the bloody hill. When I pulled up, everyone started clapping. I basically rolled out of the car. I was so happy to get out of it.

After a long shower and a couple glasses of chilled wine, I was fine.

The next day I did tell my friends I didn't think I could deal with driving back.

However my return trip was a breeze, until I got to Rome. Sigh.

I missed the turn for Vatican City and ended up God knows where.

When I finally arrived in my neighborhood, I double parked and gave the man who "helps" people park a few euros. I ran to my place to dropped off my things.

I returned to my car and then zipped around the Center and even Piazza Venezia like butter. Dropping the car off was a lot easier than picking it up. Could be because I had just driven more hours in one weekend trip than in the previous two years.

A few days later I bumped into my driving instructor, Bruno. He asked me how it went. He said he was proud of me. That warmed my heart.

I'm glad I did it. I do feel more comfortable now with a stick.

I get the Autogrill hype. It's not the Italian 7/11. It's on a whole different level.

Next time I rent a car to go out of town, I might get the car from the airport or Villa Borghese to avoid the Center and EUR. Even for experienced drivers getting in and out of Rome is confusing.

The drive, except when I was freaking out, was beautiful. I loved seeing how the terrain changed from Lazio, to Tuscany, to Liguria, and then Piemonte.

The Fiat 500 is a great little car. Excellent mileage. I don't know what type of engine I had. Mine did not have a lot pick up. Merging onto the Autostrada from a gas station was a little stressful.

Nice ride.


I would like to test the Mini Cooper at some point.

My Own Top Chef Challenge: Farro Salad with Roasted Mushrooms and Parmesan

Add farro to the list of foods I have never cooked before moving to Italy.

To be honest, I don't think I ever ate farro until I moved here.

I love barley. I know mushrooms and barley are a good flavor combination.

I checked my cookbooks and the internet for a farro/mushroom recipe. I found one on a favorite cooking blog, Food52

The recipe and a very nice photo are HERE.

The only modification I made was to add less than 6 tablespoons of olive oil at the end.

This salad was DELICIOUS. The next day I ate it cold and it was yummy that way as well.

I'm definitely added farro to my must-have-it-in-my-pantry-at-all-times list.

When in Rome...

Well, at least my blog will be on vacation for Ferragosto.

I have to finish my novel and work on a TV pitch. No vacation for me.

My neighborhood is very popular with tourists and drunk American exchange students so it won't be as quiet as other areas in Rome.

Most of my favorite places are closed until September and the majority of my friends are out of town as well.

This summer has been stressful, but I'm optimistic something great is going to happen soon.

Buon Ferragosto! See in you September.

Italian Driving School Diaries - Back behind the wheel

I'm going to sign up for Rome's Car Sharing program. Since I haven't been behind the wheel in Rome in over two years, I thought it would be a good idea to take two refresher lessons with my former instructor, Bruno.

The good news: I didn't forget how to drive a stick/manual transmission.

The bad news: I get very nervous driving in Rome.

The combination of driving stick (which is new to me) and not being used to scooters or the massive number of pedestrians freaks me out.

In L.A. we don't have to deal with pedestrians. Maybe a few downtown or near Hollywood/Highland, but nobody walks in L.A. You could be driving down Beverly Blvd in the middle of rush hour and count the number of people walking on the sidewalks with one hand.

In Rome, it's a different story.

Bruno said, "have no fear." I know he's right. I hope in time I will get used to driving in Rome.

One my friends who lived in L.A and N.Y.C. before moving to Rome a few years ago, drives like a native. She's going to let me practice driving with her car. I was told (warned) I must drive around Piazza Venezia.

Great.

"Are you married?"

The following conversation took place this morning at my local supermeracto. Translated as best I can from Italian:

Cold cuts counter man after he gave me my salami di Napoli order: "Are you married?"

Me: "No."

CCM: "No?! How is that possible?"

Me: "We talked about this last year."

CCM: "Well, I thought maybe things had changed. We should go out."

Me: "I have a boyfriend." (I don't)

CCM: Looks confused as if my reply is completely irrelevant to our conversation. After a beat he says, "Oh, okay, well then you let me know when you want to go out. Understand?"

Me: "Uhmmm" (He spoke so quickly. I wasn't sure what he said.)

CCM: "Yes, you say, 'Francesco (not his name) let's go out.' Okay? Understand?"

Me: "Oooh Okay, have a nice day."

CCM: "You too, beautiful."


Trust me, this NEVER happened to me at Gelsons, or Bristol Farms supermarkets in L.A. Last year Francesco gave his number, after I told him I had a boyfriend. He said we could still practice Italian. Bwahahah

I thought it would be awkward to go back to my favorite supermarket when I didn't call him. But, he was perfectly professional.

I was caught off guard this morning. A year later and Francesco is still trying to get his mack on? Living here cracks me up.

Pope John Paul II Beatification

Today is the beatification for Pope John Paul II.

As I ran errands last week in the Center, I definitely noticed there were a lot more tourists than usual.

Erica Firpo at the Rome Nile Guide has an excellent POST on the Beatification, what is it, what will be going on in Rome, etc.

Fendi, Kim Carnes, Lasagna And A Naked Man.

Yes, these things are connected.

Erica has a great POST about our evening, along with a cool slide show.

I was her date for the annual Fendi performance art show. The show is held in the Old Jewish Market by Circo Massimo. I've stepped into that building many times and never notice the Star of David in the ceiling until Erica pointed it out to me.

When Kim Carnes came out and sang "Bette Davis Eyes," I cracked up. It was so random! She sounded great.

The show was very interesting. I can't say that I understood everything that was going on. For example, I'm not sure what was the point of the extremely well-endowed naked man who stood onstage.

The crowded was eclectic... fashion forward young artists mixed with old money older crowd. I think Erica and I were the only Americans there.

There was small post party at the palazzo of Alda Fendi on Via Giulia. She personally greeted every guest, which was very Bella Figura.

The lasagna was delicious. I wasn't expecting food at the party but was very happy to see it.

It was a surreal evening. Despite the rain, it was one of those nights that reminded me of why I love living here.

I Went To My First Italian Wedding Reception In Italy 11 Days Ago...I'm Still Full.

I was told about the lunch following the ceremony but I wasn't prepared to partake in a 6 1/2 hour (yes, you read that correctly, SIX and a half hours) meal.

Annie, of my closest friends in Rome, got married. She and Giovanni had a wedding in her hometown back in Minnesota during the Christmas holidays.

Giovanni is Italian and there was another ceremony in Italy for their family and friends. After all they met here. I remember their first date. One afternoon at Ciampini I told Annie they were going to get married soon. And they did.

Giovanni's grandparents live in Fondi, which is near the beautiful beach of Sperlonga. His nonno (grandfather) is 91! Not sure how old his nonna is.

I drove down with Mauro, a friend of the couple's and we arrived on time for the pre-church festivities. The grandparents had a few friends and family over to their home for pastries, coffee, juice etc.

We walked from their home to the church. It was a gorgeous, hot, sunny day and the Historic Center of the small town was very pretty. The couple looked beautiful. Annie had her dress custom made in Rome.

People on the street were clapping and saying congratulations to the couple. At one point, Giovanni and Annie asked his nonna to join them upfront (Nonno was given a ride to the church, he has a cane).

Giovanni's parents AND grandparents were married in the same church. At the end of the short Mass, Giovanni's nonna was speaking with Annie. I couldn't hear what was said but I could tell by Annie's emotional reaction, she was really moved.

I know some American women who complain (a LOT) about the closeness of Italian families. I don't think it's weird or claustrophobic. Most Caribbean families are the same way. It's a different culture. I know America is more about the couple as a separate unit but we're not living in America.

Lunch was held at a restaurant in the country called La Magnatora. All the pasta was made by hand. The food was AMAZING. Very fresh.

I was going to write out the outrageous menu but it would take too long. The antipasti alone would have been more than enough food.

Giovanni's brother came over to our table and told us he warned the Americans (Annie's family) to pace themselves. Mauro schooled me at the church. I did pace myself and yet I could barely finish my lunch. The wine was delicious too.

During a break in between courses, I was talking to Annie's uncle. He pointed out how during an almost 7 hour luncheon nobody was checking their Blackberrys constantly and the older people at the party were included. It was very thoughtful of my friends to hold a ceremony in Fondi so the grandparents could be a part of their celebration.

Annie choked up as she gave a toast, in Italian, thanking her family and her new family in Italy. It was obvious how much Giovanni's family adores her.

I love how Disco never died in Italy and had a blast dancing. As I was looking through the photos from that day, I started to get a little teary all over again.

Auguri Annie e Giovanni!

Women in Italy demand some RESPECT

Yesterday there were nationwide demonstrations in Italy. There were also several protests in cities around the world, like Tokyo, London, etc.

Piazza del Popolo was PACKED. I have never seen it that full of people. It was great to see all the families and men who came out to support women. As I walked over to meet some fellow expats, Aretha Franklin's RESPECT was blaring from the loud speakers.

Berlusconi has dismissed those protesting against him as moralists and prudes. This is BS. Other than some hard core conservative Catholics, no one is up and arms about his sexy times.

What is a problem is while he's calling police stations to help poor Ruby, garbage continues to pile up in Naples. Didn't he campaign to clear it up? Why isn't he focusing on that? Or the brain drain, or high energy costs, or on all the other issues the country is facing.

He's paying young former show girls a salary higher than what President of the United States makes to "work" in the government. Meanwhile, the average 25 year-old college grad in Italy is lucky to make 1/10 of that salary.

Also, I thought he and his racist peeps, The Lega Nord were very anti-illegal immigration. Ruby, who was arrested for stealing, is not sent back to Morocco. Why because she's hot? Instead the Prime Minister of a G8 country finds the time in his busy schedule to call the Milan Police and say they have to let her go because she was Mubarak's niece. WTF? If this were any other G8 country, the PM would have to resign immediately. That is abuse of power.

Since he controls and indirectly controls 97% of the broadcast media, along with newspapers, magazines, a soccer team and a huge publishing company, I don't think Berlusconi is going to leave anytime soon. He doesn't give a damn. He has said so. He's "having fun"! The publications he owns print positive stories about him and say the far-left is out to get him.

The opposition is weak and divided (and charisma free). I wish Berlusconi would put the same amount of effort into making things better in Italy as he does toward avoid jail, lining his own pockets and sleeping around.

The New York Times has a good overview of the demonstrations HERE.

La Reppublica has excellent photos HERE.




The sign below says "I am a girl who does not want to be a Veline." Veline are the half naked women giggling and dancing all over Italian TV game and talk shows. Berlusconi brought the Veline culture to Italy. During a political rally he told young Italian women the way to make it is to marry rich, older men. It's this sexist culture women are fighting against. Basta!


The sign on the right says "The alumni of my school are not the nieces of Mubarak." The one on the left says, "I've read article 54 of the Constitution."

Will Silvio Berlusconi survive....again?

***update. He won by three votes. This is a very narrow margin. I have no idea what will happen now. I assume more gridlock.

There are demonstrations in the big cities all over Italy today.


Tomorrow the Prime Minister is up for a vote of confidence. It's too close to call. If one or both of the houses vote no, he might have to resign. This article from the Guardian sums things up.

This drama is bananas. I don't get it. Last week, it looked like he was going down and now, who knows?

It cracks me up how Bossi, who is known for flipping the bird during the Italian National Anthem, is all of a sudden trying to front like he's some elder statesman.

There may be some major demonstrations and protests tomorrow. If you're going to be in the Center, you might want to check the news before heading out.

Speaking of politics, why was Kate Gosselin on Sarah Palin's reality show? Are they friends? Random.

Amazon.com arrives in Italy, curious to see if our books show up

I have ordered from Amazon.fr (France), Amazon.uk and the Book Depository.com.uk and received my books no problem.

When the news first hit about Amazon starting an Italian website, Linda, a Canadian exapt in Milan said, "It's exciting news, isn't it! Your books may not show up but it's the thought that counts." ha.

Poste Italiane has a terrible reputation. The funny thing is, it used to be worse. I have a hard time wrapping my head around that.

We'll see. I use the other sites only for English language books I can't find here. Living in Rome, I have access to great independent bookstores and several chains, like la Feltrinelli.

I love bookstores and will always support them, even if I have to pay a little more. I can't see buying Italian books from Amazon.it but if I lived in a small town, this would be a fantastic resource.

I assume they will start to sell more international books and other products. Amazon in the States sells much more than books.

Will Poste Italiane be up to the challenge of delivering books in a timely fashion? If it goes well, maybe Netflix would be next. Now, that's a service I can be very exicted about as most of the mainstream/commercial film DVD rentals places are automated anyway.

The picture above is from a billboard near the Ponte Sisto bridge. It's massive.

No, Thanksgiving is not celebrated in Italy.

Many Americans ask me if Thanksgiving is celebrated here.

Why would it be? It's an American holiday!

However, several of my American friends, who are married to Italians, will be hosting Thanksgiving lunches this weekend.

Turkeys have been ordered from the butcher, wines have been selected and I can't wait. The food is a mix of favorites from the States (stuffing!!) and Italian dishes.

I hope everyone Stateside has a fantastic Thanksgiving Holiday!

Dear rude Anonymous Italian,

Clearly you have a problem. I've never even been to Torino, so I have no idea what you're talking about. That you only see ugliness in all Italian cities says more about you than about me.

Why are you constantly coming on my blog and trashing my POV of the country I choose to live in?

I have a French passport. If I wanted to live in France I would do so. You, as an Italian, can live in another EU country. Why are you still living here? Move to France, England, Holland etc. It's obvious you have no intentions of trying to make things better here, so go. Note, my parents are French and trust me the French give the Italians a run for the money when it comes to bureaucracy.

I cannot wrap my head around why you would read an expat's blog who moved to Italy in the first place. Since you hate Italy so much, why the fuck are you reading my blog? What's the point? What are you trying to do? Convince me to see Italy through your POV? I'm not you, so how could I?

Given how much bitterness is in your heart and your lack of a life, I'm glad I'm not.

You must have me confused with someone else. I know and so does anyone who reads a newspaper knows Italy has its problem. As does every single country on the planet. If you're looking for paradise, good luck with that.

You're the one with the rose-colored glasses. You are NOT American and therefore have no idea what it's to live there. Don't you fucking dare tell me, a black first-generation American, how I should feel about the country I grew up in.

Basta.

Lines down the block for the summer sales in Rome.

The summer sales started on Saturday. It was bananas.

In the States there are sales all the time. Not so here.

In Italy the big sales are in July and January. You might see a small store here or there hold a special but sales here are regulated by the State. They start in Milan and then continue down the boot for about a month.

The air was festive. I would say the crowds were split 50/50 between Italians and tourists.

The markdowns were no joke. Next sale season I will be ready!


The line outside of Gucci went on forever. Even after the store was opened.


Line outside of Burberry before it opened.


I wonder if any classic trench coats were on sale.


Line outside of Fendi. This building is gorgeous inside.

Flashback Friday - Italian National Football Team 2006 - Dolce & Gabbana Ad

Yes there's a new series of ads for the 2010 team but Gattuso and Canavaro are not included. I have an issue with that.

Have a great weekend!

Some photos from the Festa della Repubblica parade

Yesterday was "Festa della Repubblica" a national holiday celebrating when Italian citizens voted to become a republic after the end of World War II.

I haven't been to a parade in ages. They're not a big deal in L.A. compared to NYC. When I lived in New York there seemed to be a parade every other weekend, St. Patrick's Day, Puerto Rican Day, Dominican Day, Halloween, The Macy's Thanksgiving Day, Gay Pride Day, West Indian Day, Easter Hat, etc.

It was gorgeous out, so I decided to walk over to Piazza Venezia. The parade route was packed. I bumped into two American expats who live near me and watched the parade with them.

It was fun. I cracked up when people cheered for the AMA (sanitation) trucks. They weren't part of the parade but were there to clean up after the horses.

I wasn't able to get good photos of the various troops. I was too far back. I felt sorry for the scuba unit. It was too hot to wear such outfits. The nuns (I think they were nurses) were looking sharp.

The highlight was the military jets flying over Piazza Venezia at the end. As much as we all dislike that huge building, the planes flying over it was a nice visual.

The planes, the planes


This boat reminded me of the show "Miami Vice" for some reason.


I guess the dog was too tired to walk.


Gorgeous horse.


The planes over Piazza Venezia

Cool Roma birthday photos from Naked Rome

Rome turned 2763 years old yesterday.

That is hella old.

I thought these photos taken at Circo Massimo were very cool.

Naked Rome is one of my favorite photo blogs.

Oh snap! Roma takes the lead over Inter in Serie A.

I'm not even going to call my friend G. He's a hard core Inter fan.

Yesterday people were honking horns, cheering and all the bars were packed.

To tell you the truth, I'm in shock.

Roma started out terribly this year. So much so, their coach was fired.

That they are actually in the lead for Serie A is unbelievable. Inter (one of the Milan teams. AC Milan is the other and they are in third place) has had Serie A on lockdown the last couple of years.

I have already been warned that if Roma wins the Scudetto (Serie A Championship), it's going to be bananas. Roma is still the underdog and their lead is only one point.

We'll see what happens with the last few games of the season. It's so exciting...well maybe not for Inter fans. Poor G.