I've been living here for over a year and just heard about about this market a few weeks ago. Within one week several different people told me I had to check it out.
I thought they were talking about the market on Via Cola di Rienzo, which I've been to a couple of times. It's housed in the white building pictured.
Apparently there was another market in Prati, near the Vatican Museum. Today I walked over, cutting through St. Peter's square.
I almost lost my mind. It was love at first sight.
Is it me or have the prices in Campo dei Fiori skyrocketed since spring? This wouldn't have anything to do with the start of the tourist season? hmm
I did some comparison shopping a few weeks back. Cherries in Campo, avg. 8 euros a kilo. Testaccio market, avg. 4 euros a kilo.
Campo is fine if I have to run out and get something quickly. Shopping for a few days? No. Forget that. I'm not paying tourists prices.
The Trionfale market prices are lower than Campo, more in line with Testaccio, and Piazza Vittorio (a good market but too far for me. It's by Termini).
Like the latter it also has a few vendors (not as many as Pz. Vittorio) selling ethnic foods. I saw okra and plantains.
There was a vendor selling balsamic vinegar by the liter. The market has a wide variety of vendors selling: cheese, honey, meat, baked goods, fish, wines, fresh pasta, vegetables, fruits, etc. There are also a few dry goods vendors.
There's a flower mart nearby but it opens later in the day.
The market has underground parking as the lot is also used for the Vatican Museum.
Distance wise Trionfale is a little closer than Testaccio. I really liked the vibe of it. It's clean, bright and well laid out. Folks were super friendly, which I didn't expect. Everyone was all, "buona giornata, grazie lei!" Or maybe it's because I was there super early. Perhaps by the end of the day, the vendors are salty and just want to go home.
I need to go back with someone who shops there all the time. I feel like I just scratched the surface of it this morning. I walked out of there wishing I had a bigger kitchen. I was inspired to throw down.
If you're visiting Rome and staying in an apartment any where near this area, I highly recommend this market. I don't know how much English is spoken as I didn't see a single tourist in this huge space. However, given how close it is to the Vatican they must get a few.
20 comments:
8 Euros a kilo to 4 Euros a kilo is quite a price difference. Maybe the tourism is making the prices there higher.
I must say I am very jealous though. I miss the food in Italy so much. It is very good.
Enjoy the new market
I didn't know about this market but want to check it out next time I'm in Rome. When we lived there, we used to shop at the market in Trastevere - piazza san cosimato. We met a woman who lived in pizza dei fiori who said she never shopped there because of the high prices but went to Testaccio instead.
This was a great piece of information! And for us locals too.
I love how you give these useful tips to others viiting the city, you pour all your love for this place in them, making us all realize what a unique place we live in.
Grazie!
Lola
doesn't it feel good to find "your" something...I remember when we found our market in Florence too. It was so great and we loved going there... amongst the locals and not tourists. It was easier to try and make an effort to get to know the vendors too
Dont you love those moments of a great discovery?
You sound the way I feel each time I go to my local market. Now I have the plus of knowing so many of the farmers and other vendors there. I love the really big European markets, though, and I'm just loving the vicarious experience of hearing you talk about it all.
j. doe - yes it's crazy. There were markets in L.A. but only twice a week and not with all the variety. I have to say the markets are one of my favorite things about living here. Excellent produce and much of it is from here.
CCL - I have never been to the San Cosimato market. Wasn't there a nice flower market there as well?
lola - prego!
erin - I can't wait to go back. This time I will have a better idea of what to buy.
glamah - I find it nuts that I'm just hearing about such a big market now. There is so much of this city I haven't seen yet.
jen - I love farmers market in general, especially this time of year.
Am enjoying your writing since discovering this blog. Agree that ingredients make the dish. We envy you being able live where our hearts remain. Ask in the Campo de Fiori for Sonia, she speaks English fluently, tell her Grace and Max sent you.
max - thank you for stopping by. Which stand is Sonia's? I'll ask around.
Sonia and her mother (Franca)have the booth directly opposite Marina and Fabizio's hat/shirt booth. Sonia is sandy blondish, would include picture but don't know method here.
Let's see if this works
http://picasaweb.google.com/maxbjr/CampoDeFioriAndItSPeople#
max - I have seen their stand. I have "my" vendor but I will see what they sell.
I am an expat, living in Rome for almost one year. I actually live in this neighborhood and am ashamed to say that I have not yet been to the market since it opened...which is only a few months ago. It used to be all outdoors and when I arrived last August, I would go on Saturday mornings. Now, I often take the lazy route and go to the supermercado which is closer to my apartment.
You have inspired me to go. Grazie!
sharice - you're welcome. It's been too hot for me to schlep over to the market but looking forward to seeing what they will have in September.
Hi, been reading a lot of your inspiring post, thanks. I'm a french canadian arriving in Rome for 2 weeks in an appartement in Trastevere (near Piazza De Renzi, guess it will be very noisy after reading your last post, anyway)). I intend to be at the appart. around 14h on the 14th, do you think i will have time to make it to the Trionfale merket. I want to do a grocery (eggs, milk, bread, oil, butter, coffee, meat, vegetable etc. but of fresh ang good italian product) for a couple of days since everything will be close on saturday (Assumption) and sunday. Can you give me some advice on where to go. I recognize that this is a question for very basic needs, but you give such nice and good advice, altough i figure out that you probably live near where i will be, i just want to thank you in advance for the counsel.
Grazie!
Michel
Michel - I don't know how late the market stays open. Campo's usually shuts down around 2-3 and it's better to go in the AM. There's the San Cosimato (sp?) market in Trastevere. Maybe you can swing by there once you arrive.
If it's closed already there are plenty of supermarkets in Trastevere for the basics to tie you over for the weekend. You are smart to shop on the 14th as pretty much everything will be closed on the 15th with some places staying closed until September 1st.
Also I'm not sure where your apartment so that part of Trastevere might be quieter than the area near Pz. Trillussa or Santa Maria in Trastevere. buon vacanze.
just stumbled upon your blog- I've been a student in rome since august and live near this market, probably one of my favorite things about the city. so warm and friendly, barely any english but they're all so willing to help with my italian. plus after getting to know some of my favorite vendors they usually throw in extra samples and treats! I'm madly in love with it and am going to miss it enormously when I leave!
jenelle - isn't it great? I think the vendors are very nice as well. I try to go early in the morning before it gets too hectic.
The quality of the food is amazing.
it is my favorite market too!!
giovanna - I love it. I didn't know you had a blog. Look forward to reading more of your recipes.
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