Favorite Things: Italian Sparkling Wine

One of my favorite things to drink is a nice glass of Italian sparkling wine. This is a subject I didn't know much about, beyond prosecco, before I moved to Italy.

I felt it was time to get educated on this extremely important topic.

I attended Vinoroma's Sparkling Saturdays wine tasting. For a more detailed description of the wines and much better photographs, my friend Gina wrote about it HERE.

Hande is a fantastic sommelier. She chose five very different wines for us to taste.

I liked how Hande explained the history of the regions and the wines. It was informative and interesting.

My favorite wine of the evening was Belecasel's Asolo Prosecco Extra Dry. It would be perfect to pair up with shellfish or a fish risotto.

It was my first time seeing the newish Vinoroma space. It's fantastic. The cellar is over 900 years old. That's right, nine hundred. I may need to camp out there during the summer as I do not have A/C.


I took these photos with my new phone's camera.

Get Your Cocktail On: Caffè Propaganda

I do drink more wine and fewer cocktails since moving to Rome. However, sometimes I like to have something other than a glass of wine, prosecco, or an Aperol Spritz.

Caffè Propaganda is a newish place that opened up in the Celio neighborhood. I don't think I will be eating dinner there any time soon after reading Katie Parla's review (maybe in time the kitchen's kinks will be worked out) but for cocktails... oh hells yes.

My friend Erica and her friend met up with me and two of my friends last Friday. We got there on the early side and sat at the bar.

The décor is gorgeous. The zinc bar and the chandeliers are from France. Stunning. I happened to see an interview with one of the architects on Leonardo. I think she also designed the restaurant 'Gusto.

The music was fantastic. I heard one of my all time favorites, Stevie Wonder's "As" and a version of Marvin Gaye's "I Want You" that I've never heard before. I thought I'd heard them all. Bravo, Mr. DJ.

The crowd was very different from the Piazza Navona/Campo dei Fiori Triangle, no students or tourists. It was older, late 20s and up. There was a couple sitting next to me at the bar who might have been, stop the presses, in their 40s.

Of course none of this matters if the drinks suck. Thankfully, that was not the situation. The two bartenders, Emanuele and Desirè, broke it down.

Emanuele worked in New York City and Desirè in London. They really know their stuff. I could watch them mix drinks for hours. Their seasonal cocktails were inventive and delicious. All night we kept asking them, "what drink is that?"

The bartenders were attentive and friendly, even as the bar started to fill up later into the evening. We spoke Italian to them and they spoke English to us so they could practice.

We did get a few antipasti which were yummy.

My friends and I had a great time and will return. I have to try their Moscow Mule. I wonder what the crowd will be like once high season starts.

Caffè Propaganda
Via Claudia, 15
06-94-53-4255

Favorite Things: St. Martin/St. Maarten Beaches

I haven't been to every single beach on the island, but these three are among my favorites.

My family lives on the French side. During Christmas time (high season) we try to stay on that side of the island as traffic is awful, especially on the Dutch side. God help you if you're on that side of the island when one of the massive cruise ships docks.

When we do venture over to the Dutch side, we go to Karakter's. The beach bar/restaurant is located on Simpson Bay Beach, very close to the airport runaway. I love watching the massive American Airlines, Air France, and KLM planes land.

This beach is on the Atlantic Ocean side of the island. The waves and current are pretty strong, as are the drinks. There is free WiFi. It gets packed, so get there early. Beach chairs are free if you're staying for food/drinks.

Of the three beaches, Karakter's has the most extensive menu and is known for their food and drinks.





Friar's Bay Beach is on the Caribbean Sea and French side of the island. It's the closest one to my parents' house.

We usually stay by Kali's Beach Bar but both places on the beach are popular with French folks, locals, and Americans. Kali is owned by a local Rastafarian and his "lady", Caroline, who is French.

Note: please my fellow Americans, do not go to a local spot on a French island and act all indignant when they tell you they don't serve Bud Light.



On the road to the beach we passed some cattle that were done grazing for the day. My seven year-old nephew said, "What the heck?"




Le Galion Beach is also on the French and Caribbean Sea side of the island. It's known as the Baby Beach. It's very popular with families.

The water is so clear and calm. My nephews (4 and 7) adore this beach.

There's a good beach bar and they will bring drinks and lunch out to you. It goes without saying the French bread is amazing.

Next week: Favorite beach bars.

Snapshot Rome - Surprised by some sheep

I was jogging on the road that leads to the entrance of the Catacombe di San Callisto off Via Appia Antica. Usually, I'm on the look out for tour buses and bicyclists. Suddenly, a few sheep zipped across the road.

The lambs are too cute for word. It's hard to believe a flock this size is so close to the Historic Center.

Get Your Art On: Mario Testino "Todo o Nada"

I finally made it to this exhibit at the Fondazione Palazzo Ruspoli Memmo on Via del Corso. It opened in July and closes on November 23rd. The show is co-hosted by the foundations of Fendi, Gucci, and Valentino.

Testino is one of my favorite fashion photographers and I heard great things about the show. It did not disappoint. I really enjoyed it.

As we walked through the exhibit, my friends and I were talking about how celebrities have replaced models on fashion magazine covers.

When you look at the photographs, it's clear while this could be good for sales, artistically it's depressing, boring, and lazy.

Many actresses are drop-dead gorgeous, but they are not models. I know many people think anyone who is tall, and pretty can be a supermodel. Despite what reality shows say, that is not true.

There is something about the way the camera captures the faces of models that makes them stand out. Also, I'm not surprised many models used to be dancers. You do have to know how to move your body when you're posing for photos. Not all actresses have the physicality.

The exhibit was heavy on models, but there were a few actresses in the mix. It's no shock that Cameron Diaz's portrait was one of the most interesting. Cameron was a model.

Some of my favorite portraits were of Daria Werbowy. Stunning.

It was nice to see some of the ladies from the '80s, Naomi, Linda, Christy, Stephanie, and Cindy, represented. I miss that era.

I'm glad we're moving away from the "hanger" phenomenon. I disagree with the notion that famous models are too distracting for the clothes. Look at the '80s. Those model were super famous and yet you noticed what they were wearing on the runway, in ads, and editorials.

If you're going to be in Rome during the next few weeks and you're into photography and/or fashion, this show is fantastic.

Here's a little video about the opening:

Hermès exhibit... sigh.

There was a short-term Hermès exhibit at the Chiostro del Bramante in Rome to celebrate the opening of the new men's store on Via Campo Marzio.

It ended on Sunday. My friend C. and I made it just in time on Saturday.

I don't remember how old I was when I first became aware of Hermès. I walked into their store in St. Martin one day during a summer trip to see my grandparents.

The store was incredible. The salespeople were so chic and very nice.

My friends know I'm somewhat obsessed with Hermès bags. One friend even sends me snapshots of Birkins she sees in Rome.

I don't own a single one. Years ago I saw a used Kelly bag at a yard sale in Georgetown. I could kick myself for not buying it. Then again I was a junior congressional aide on The Hill making less than 18k a year. I doubt I could afford the bag.

I still can't afford the bags. But I can appreciate them from afar.

The exhibit was fantastic. Well curated and the write-ups were beautiful. I know they were writing about leather and bags, but it was poetry.

We were able to touch the leather samples. Like butter.

There was one display comprised of only Kellys and Birkins. My friend asked me if I was okay because it looked like I was hyperventilating.

They had bags on display that were over hundred and fifty years old. The level of craftsmanship is unreal.

The company was founded in 1837 as a harness workshop and is still family owned. However, the big multinational LVHM wants like to buy them out.

Hermès bags are made by hand, unlike some other luxury brands.

A craftsperson works on one bag at a time.


C. used to ride horses. We spent a lot of time in this room.


When I see this picture I crack up. This was in a little room to the right of the big Kelly/Birkin display. As we walked toward the room, we heard this smacking noise. It was a couple completely making out behind the display. The crazy thing is, they didn't stop when we walked past them. We were in that room for a while and when we walked out, they were still making out. Really, folks, in a museum?!


Hermès store Rue du General De Gaulle. Marigot, St. Martin, French West Indies. Where the love affair began.

Friends, Cookies and Campari – Rome’s Fashion Night Out.

Italian Vogue's editor Franca Sozzani


The delicious cookies given out at Gente on Via Babuino


Cool display at the Campari party which was held in the "Roman Holiday" palazzo on Via Margutta


A model in the archway on Via Margutta.


Cocktails!


Leaving the party. Next stop, Stella McCartney.

Last Thursday night, Rome held her version of Vogue’s Fashion Night Out. Anna Wintour, the EIC of American Vogue, started the event a few years ago to kick off Fashion Week in New York City.

There are rumors this year will be the last one in NYC, but nothing has been confirmed.

I wasn’t sure what to expect. Two of my fashion loving friends met up with me at Miu Miu and off we went.

Courtney invited a young Italian friend of hers to join us. She was super sweet and it was interesting to hear the POV of an early 20-something. I don’t know if she realized all of us were technically old enough to be her mom. Heh.

Just as I arrived at Miu Miu I saw Franca Sozzani, the EIC of Italian Vogue. She was surrounded by a ton of press.

The night was a blast. We kept bumping into friends. I couldn’t believe how crowded the streets were. Red Valentino served the best cocktails.

Several stores hired DJs. The Stella McCartney store had a hot popcorn machine. Erica heard a rumor they also had cupcakes, but by the time we got there we didn’t see any.

Gente on Via Babuino served cookies (they were very cute and delicious), prosecco (in nice glasses) and appetizers. It was my first time in that store. Oh Mio Dio, why did I do that to myself? They sell Repetto ballet flats and other wonderful things.

One thing that jumped out at me was seeing so men out and about with their girlfriends/wives. People really got into the spirit of the evening.

Some of the proceeds were donated to the Red Cross. This would explain why we saw so many nurses wearing vintage Red Cross uniforms. Fashion + function.

Piemonte 2: Electric Boogaloo - wine, ravioli, stars

The first time I went to Piemonte was two years ago on my birthday.

This year I stayed in the Terrace Room. The room is amazing. They just finished it earlier this year. I could live in the shower. For real.

My birthday started out with:
A lovely way to start the day.

Then, like my last trip, I went to a wine tasting.

My friend's husband is an excellent guide. He really knows a lot about Piemontese wines, but speaks about them in a way that is accessible.

Another guest joined us and off we went. We drove to the area of Piemonte called Langhe. This is some serious wine country. Home of the Nebbiolo grape.



We stopped by Ca' del Baio. Micha went to pick up a some cases, but it turned into a impromptu wine tasting. Valentina was wonderful. She is the great granddaughter of the founder. 1000 CORKS has a listing of where you can buy their wines in America. Their wines are very, very, good. Loved their Barbaresco and their Moscato.

The next was vineyard CANTINA DEL GLICINE located in the tiny charming town of Neive. There is a nice video on their website. It takes a bit to load.

The cantina has been in existence since the 1600s. I had a great time and tasted some excellent Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, Barbaresco and Moscato wine. There was one white wine Roero Arneis, that I wasn't familiar with. I'm kicking myself for not buying a bottle.



For my birthday dinner I had these:

Mere words cannot describe how delicious these ravioli were. The sauce was made from the pan drippings of the roasted meat used for the fillings. Super light, and full of flavor.

That night, after dinner, I sat on "my" terrace with a glass of wine. I looked up. The sky was packed with stars. I even saw a shooting star. It was so relaxing and peaceful.

Thanks to my friends, I had so much fun on my birthday I forgot to be in a bad mood.

I adore the area. It's interesting to me that one of the best (if not the best according my wine expert friends) wine regions in Italy is so undiscovered by the busloads of American tourists who go to wine tastings in Tuscany. We saw one American couple. That's it. We did see quite a few cars with French, German and Swiss plates.

Maybe it's because most of the Piemontese producers are small?

Sitting on the terrace hearing nothing but the wind through the trees, I wish I had a house in the country. A place to sit and write. I would love to own a place in Piemonte. After the drive, I realized it's too far from Rome. Way too far.

Yes, it's true I have no money now, but things are going to get better. And I will buy a house one day. It might not be until I'm sixty and it might be super tiny, but it will happen.

In the meantime, it's nice to know there are places where you do feel at home.

Sigh.



At Cantina del Glicine.


One of the best known producers in Italy.


I have to ask Diana for the name of this restaurant. UPDATE: See Diana's response below.


More Piemonte photos are on my FLICKRpage.

Snapshot Rome - The GAP

Shot on Via del Corso. I'm very curious to see how the clothes in this store will differ from the clothes Stateside. The cuts will definitely have to be smaller. Baggy/loose clothes are not popular here. Even hip-hop loving teenagers don't do baggy.

The last few times I've been in the GAP (at the Grove or Century City in L.A.) were disappointing. The GAP used to be the place to get good, well made basics at decent prices. Now, it's maybe one step above Forever 21. The clothes look and feel cheap. What the heck happened? That said, GAP BODY is fantastic. They have the best cotton underwear, PJs, etc.


UPDATE:
A friend just Tweeted me to say, the GAP opened on Sunday. The cuts are smaller. She bought eleven shirts. Clothes were made in Turkey and Egypt instead of Vietnam.

Snapshot Rome - Pecore/Sheep

Normally, I walk on the old stone road when I go to Via Appia Antica.

A few weeks back, I decided to follow the joggers and cyclists and go through the park off Via Caffarella.

It's a very pretty path passing various ruins and big open fields. At one point I started to hear (and smell) sheep.

Hard to believe I was only a few kilometers from the center of Rome.

Karl Lagerfeld Photography Exhibit in Rome

If you love photography and/or fashion, I highly recommend this show. The exhibit ends April 10th.

I went with two friends last week.

I knew Sir Karl was a talented photographer but it was the first time I've seen a collection of his work. Amazing.

The first section is dedicated to portraits, fashion, landscapes, architecture and nudes (including his muse Jean Baptiste Giabiconi). The second section showcases Lagerfeld more experimental work.

The Bramante gallery (Chiostro del Bramante) is one of my favorite spaces in Rome. It's worth a trip for the building alone.

Chiostro del Bramante
Arco della Pace, 5
00186 Roma
+(39)066 8809036

Snapshot Rome: Spring Has Sprung

I'm not sure what type of tree this is.

I saw several of them at the top of Gianicolo Hill. The blossoms smell amazing.

I'm so glad Spring is here. I bought some Sudifed when I was in L.A. last October. This time I'm ready for allergy season.

Buon Compleanno (Happy Birthday) Italia!

The sun broke through for a few minutes this morning. I used to opportunity to get in a work out and took my camera. I ran up to Gianicolo Hill, one of the highest hills in the city.

Nile Guide's Erica Firpo has written a great POST about the activities taking place in Rome to celebrate the 150th Anniversary of Italy's unification.

Men in uniform getting ready.


Giuseppe Garibaldi keeping watch.


The cannons are ready.


Earlier this year, restorers were cleaning and repairing these statues.


Before the unveiling.


In Europe people don't really fly their flags all the time like we do in the States. It is unusual to see so many Tri-colore flags in the city.

Snapshot Rome: Pastificio San Lorenzo

A few weeks ago I finally made it over to Pastificio San Lorenzo.

Last year an Italian friend had pointed out the building, telling me it used to be a pasta factory. Above the restaurant are artists lofts and there's also a gallery space.

My friend, Jessica, suggested we meet there for her birthday drinks. It was a fantastic idea.

San Lorenzo is a serious schlep from my side of town. While in the area I had to stop by SAID for some chocolate.

We had a great time sitting at the bar. The cocktails are excellent (Jessica and I had Moscow Mules). My wine expert friend appreciated the variety of Sicilian wines and the food was delicious. Our waiter was super friendly.

I really like the decor and the vibe. I will definitely return.

Pastificio San Lorenzo
via Tiburtina 196 (near Piazzale Verano)
+39 0697273519
Closed Monday
Open lunch and dinner Tues-Fri & Sun
Open dinner only Saturday

Some dessert for the lady celebrating her birthday.

Snapshot Rome: Drink your eggs! - Trionfale Market

A year later, I'm still exploring my market.

I used to buy my eggs at the supermarket until I "discovered" the egg vendors. The prices are cheaper and the eggs are fresher. What the heck took me so long?

I met up with Erica at the market last Friday. She wanted to check out the fish. Afterward, we stopped by my egg vendor.

Erica wrote a lovely ODE to the egg and the memories of her Roman nonna feeding her a raw egg "shake" for her merenda (Italian for a mid-afternoon snack).

The eggs marked "Da Bere" (to drink) are the freshest of the fresh. You have to eat them within a short period of time.

The vendor was speaking Italian very quickly, so I missed the explanation regarding how these eggs are different from the others.

She said the eggs come from the Le Marche region.

Their eggs are delicious. I can totally taste the difference between their eggs and the ones I used to buy at the supermarket.

Trionfale is not the closest market to my house but it's worth the schlep.

Christmas Eve, St. Peter's Square, Rome Italy

Last night Erica, The Professor, Baby X and I went to St. Peter's Square after enjoying a tradition Christmas Eve dinner. It was the first time I've been to St. Peter's on Christmas Eve.

The Vatican unveils their life-size manger on Christmas Eve.

It was raining and I'm not Catholic but I was moved by the entire experience.

Merry Christmas/Buon Natale a tutti!