Favorite Things: Italian Sparkling Wine

One of my favorite things to drink is a nice glass of Italian sparkling wine. This is a subject I didn't know much about, beyond prosecco, before I moved to Italy.

I felt it was time to get educated on this extremely important topic.

I attended Vinoroma's Sparkling Saturdays wine tasting. For a more detailed description of the wines and much better photographs, my friend Gina wrote about it HERE.

Hande is a fantastic sommelier. She chose five very different wines for us to taste.

I liked how Hande explained the history of the regions and the wines. It was informative and interesting.

My favorite wine of the evening was Belecasel's Asolo Prosecco Extra Dry. It would be perfect to pair up with shellfish or a fish risotto.

It was my first time seeing the newish Vinoroma space. It's fantastic. The cellar is over 900 years old. That's right, nine hundred. I may need to camp out there during the summer as I do not have A/C.


I took these photos with my new phone's camera.

The Perfect E-book For People Who Love ltalian Coffee

My friend Sara Rosso has just published an e-book on Amazon.com.

It's a great guide for anyone who loves Italian coffee and/or plans to travel to Italy.

Sara is an American who has lived in Italy for over eight years. She's also a very talented photographer and cook/baker. Sara was one of the first expats I met in Italy. It's partly her fault I moved to Bella Italia in the first place.

Here's a link to her BLOG that has all the information you need to purchase her book. It's only .99 cents. A bargain!

Spotlight on Lazio - wine, cheese, friends, and charity

Saturday night two of my favorite people in Rome, Katie Parla and Hande Leimer, hosted a wine tasting focusing on the Lazio region at the enoteca Il Bacocco in Trastevere.

The proceeds from the evening went to the food rescue charity A Chi Serve.

Saturday was a surreal day. The peaceful Occupy Rome protest turned violent once the Black Bloc showed up. The self-proclaimed anarchists have done this before. They hijack organized peaceful protests and then proceed to burn and break anything they can get their hands on.

The area around San Giovanni looks like a war zone. The cost of the damage is over 1.5 million euros. This is money that could be used for something else, especially during a budget crisis.

Despite the mayhem, there was a strong turnout.

Sommelier Hande gave a great presentation about the two wines we tasted, one white, one red. They went very well with the various cheeses and salami. Vincenzo Mancino of DOL-Di Origine Laziale donated the food. I must check out his store. I'm still thinking about the goat cheese.

We drank Marco Carpineti’s “Capolemole” Cori Bianco and L’Olivella’s “Quaranta/Sesanta” Rosso Lazio IGT.

Katie's excellent (and more detailed) post about the event is HERE. She has links to all the places that helped make Saturday a special evening. I hope Hande and Katie will organize more events like this in the future.

Piemonte 2: Electric Boogaloo - wine, ravioli, stars

The first time I went to Piemonte was two years ago on my birthday.

This year I stayed in the Terrace Room. The room is amazing. They just finished it earlier this year. I could live in the shower. For real.

My birthday started out with:
A lovely way to start the day.

Then, like my last trip, I went to a wine tasting.

My friend's husband is an excellent guide. He really knows a lot about Piemontese wines, but speaks about them in a way that is accessible.

Another guest joined us and off we went. We drove to the area of Piemonte called Langhe. This is some serious wine country. Home of the Nebbiolo grape.



We stopped by Ca' del Baio. Micha went to pick up a some cases, but it turned into a impromptu wine tasting. Valentina was wonderful. She is the great granddaughter of the founder. 1000 CORKS has a listing of where you can buy their wines in America. Their wines are very, very, good. Loved their Barbaresco and their Moscato.

The next was vineyard CANTINA DEL GLICINE located in the tiny charming town of Neive. There is a nice video on their website. It takes a bit to load.

The cantina has been in existence since the 1600s. I had a great time and tasted some excellent Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, Barbaresco and Moscato wine. There was one white wine Roero Arneis, that I wasn't familiar with. I'm kicking myself for not buying a bottle.



For my birthday dinner I had these:

Mere words cannot describe how delicious these ravioli were. The sauce was made from the pan drippings of the roasted meat used for the fillings. Super light, and full of flavor.

That night, after dinner, I sat on "my" terrace with a glass of wine. I looked up. The sky was packed with stars. I even saw a shooting star. It was so relaxing and peaceful.

Thanks to my friends, I had so much fun on my birthday I forgot to be in a bad mood.

I adore the area. It's interesting to me that one of the best (if not the best according my wine expert friends) wine regions in Italy is so undiscovered by the busloads of American tourists who go to wine tastings in Tuscany. We saw one American couple. That's it. We did see quite a few cars with French, German and Swiss plates.

Maybe it's because most of the Piemontese producers are small?

Sitting on the terrace hearing nothing but the wind through the trees, I wish I had a house in the country. A place to sit and write. I would love to own a place in Piemonte. After the drive, I realized it's too far from Rome. Way too far.

Yes, it's true I have no money now, but things are going to get better. And I will buy a house one day. It might not be until I'm sixty and it might be super tiny, but it will happen.

In the meantime, it's nice to know there are places where you do feel at home.

Sigh.



At Cantina del Glicine.


One of the best known producers in Italy.


I have to ask Diana for the name of this restaurant. UPDATE: See Diana's response below.


More Piemonte photos are on my FLICKRpage.

My Own Top Chef Challenge: Farro Salad with Roasted Mushrooms and Parmesan

Add farro to the list of foods I have never cooked before moving to Italy.

To be honest, I don't think I ever ate farro until I moved here.

I love barley. I know mushrooms and barley are a good flavor combination.

I checked my cookbooks and the internet for a farro/mushroom recipe. I found one on a favorite cooking blog, Food52

The recipe and a very nice photo are HERE.

The only modification I made was to add less than 6 tablespoons of olive oil at the end.

This salad was DELICIOUS. The next day I ate it cold and it was yummy that way as well.

I'm definitely added farro to my must-have-it-in-my-pantry-at-all-times list.

Day Trip: Amazing Spaghetti con Vongole in Santa Marinella

A few weeks ago I took a much needed break and went to Santa Marinella. I work up at 5:00 a.m. to make sure I wrote 2000 words before getting on the train.

The beach is north of Rome. The water is not as nice as Sperlonga's (which is a Blue Flag Beach), but it's much nicer than Ostia's.

It's closer than Sperlonga, just 40 minutes or so on the train. A round trip ticket from Trastevere station is only 7 euros.

My friend Erica had recommended eating lunch at La Piazzette, Piazza Trieste, 13a, (39) 392-891-5356.

Mamma Mia! Their Spaghetti con Vongole was some of the best I've had in my life. The pasta was perfectly al dente.

The town itself is pretty small. There is a cute boardwalk with shops and a few cafes. I went during a weekday. It was very quiet. I'm sure during a summer weekend, the place is packed.

It was good to get out and the smell fresh sea air. I hope someday I will be able to have a house not too far from the sea/ocean. In the meantime, I will try to go to the beach at least once a month. It's so close.


I was sitting under a red umbrella. That's why the pasta looks pinkish. The restaurant has outdoor seating on small piazza. They gave me too much wine.


Fried calamari. Mi piacciono!


Perhaps the owner of this boat is a STAR WARS fan.


There was a friendly older local gentleman standing next to me as I took pictures of this fruit stand. He was probably wonder why the heck I was taking photos of something so ordinary. I thought the fruit was beautiful.


The sea.


Maybe later next month I will return and rent a chair and an umbrella for the day.

Favorite Things: Cacio & Pepe at Roma Sparita

I've been hearing about this restaurant for years.

Anthony Bourdain recently raved about their Cacio & Pepe. He didn't name the restaurant, but several expat friends here figured it out.

A few weeks ago I went with my FRIEND to see what the hype was all about.

Roma Sparita's version of the classic Roman dish is perfection. It's not heavy and the pasta had the right amount of bite to it. The basket of parmesan cheese is a nice (and delicious) touch.

The restaurant is located on the quieter side of Trastevere. Reservations are suggested, especially for outdoor seating.

Roma Sparita
Piazza Santa Cecilia, 24
+(39) 06 580 0757

UPDATE: Interesting post from Katie Parla HERE regarding Roma Sparita and service charges for tourists.

I Went To My First Italian Wedding Reception In Italy 11 Days Ago...I'm Still Full.

I was told about the lunch following the ceremony but I wasn't prepared to partake in a 6 1/2 hour (yes, you read that correctly, SIX and a half hours) meal.

Annie, of my closest friends in Rome, got married. She and Giovanni had a wedding in her hometown back in Minnesota during the Christmas holidays.

Giovanni is Italian and there was another ceremony in Italy for their family and friends. After all they met here. I remember their first date. One afternoon at Ciampini I told Annie they were going to get married soon. And they did.

Giovanni's grandparents live in Fondi, which is near the beautiful beach of Sperlonga. His nonno (grandfather) is 91! Not sure how old his nonna is.

I drove down with Mauro, a friend of the couple's and we arrived on time for the pre-church festivities. The grandparents had a few friends and family over to their home for pastries, coffee, juice etc.

We walked from their home to the church. It was a gorgeous, hot, sunny day and the Historic Center of the small town was very pretty. The couple looked beautiful. Annie had her dress custom made in Rome.

People on the street were clapping and saying congratulations to the couple. At one point, Giovanni and Annie asked his nonna to join them upfront (Nonno was given a ride to the church, he has a cane).

Giovanni's parents AND grandparents were married in the same church. At the end of the short Mass, Giovanni's nonna was speaking with Annie. I couldn't hear what was said but I could tell by Annie's emotional reaction, she was really moved.

I know some American women who complain (a LOT) about the closeness of Italian families. I don't think it's weird or claustrophobic. Most Caribbean families are the same way. It's a different culture. I know America is more about the couple as a separate unit but we're not living in America.

Lunch was held at a restaurant in the country called La Magnatora. All the pasta was made by hand. The food was AMAZING. Very fresh.

I was going to write out the outrageous menu but it would take too long. The antipasti alone would have been more than enough food.

Giovanni's brother came over to our table and told us he warned the Americans (Annie's family) to pace themselves. Mauro schooled me at the church. I did pace myself and yet I could barely finish my lunch. The wine was delicious too.

During a break in between courses, I was talking to Annie's uncle. He pointed out how during an almost 7 hour luncheon nobody was checking their Blackberrys constantly and the older people at the party were included. It was very thoughtful of my friends to hold a ceremony in Fondi so the grandparents could be a part of their celebration.

Annie choked up as she gave a toast, in Italian, thanking her family and her new family in Italy. It was obvious how much Giovanni's family adores her.

I love how Disco never died in Italy and had a blast dancing. As I was looking through the photos from that day, I started to get a little teary all over again.

Auguri Annie e Giovanni!

Snapshot Rome: Fish - Trionfale Market

I need to learn how to cook fish.

Once in a while I would buy shrimp or salmon at the Gelson fish counter when I lived in L.A. Not sure why I didn't buy/cook fish more often.

I grew up eating fish every single Friday. My dad went to Catholic schools but my mom was/is Methodist. I'm not sure where the fish every Friday tradition came from. One dish I had no love for was fish head soup. Pass.

Of course having Caribbean parents, we had to eat what they ate. There was no "kids menu" at our house. When we got older, like in high school, sometimes my mom would say she was thinking about making either one dish or the other and would ask our opinion. Other than that, nope. My mom was not running a restaurant. If you didn't like what she made, guess you weren't eating that night.

Growing up in the islands, fish was a big part of my parents' diet. My dad was Mr. Breakfast on weekends and sometimes we would have fish then as well.

I happened to buy sardines the other week and eating them reminded me of Sunday breakfasts in Jersey.

Now that I'm surrounded by excellent fishmongers, I need to step up my fish game. heh

To be honest, I'm a little overwhelmed by all the choices. I'm slowly learning the Italian names for different types of fish and my goal is to try a "new" fish every month. I have never cooked a whole fish. This is one of my personal Top Chef Challenges for 2011.

Can we talk about the deliciousness that is Chef Eric Ripert?

I've been watching "Top Chef" Season 5 on LEI (the Italian version of Lifetime...television for women). It's down to the final four.

Chef Ripert was one of the guest judges on an earlier episode. He's the head chef and co-owner of Le Bernardin in NYC. This four star restaurant is known for fish and is considered one of the best restaurants in America.

I love his accent. I could listen to him read the United States Capital Gains tax bill.

I get down right giddy when he and his best friend Anthony Bourdain show up on my favorite cooking and travel shows.

It cracks me up that in the video below, Chef Ripert says his recipe for sauteed cod with pea shoots and ginger-lemon scallion broth is easy.

Snapshot Rome: Pastificio San Lorenzo

A few weeks ago I finally made it over to Pastificio San Lorenzo.

Last year an Italian friend had pointed out the building, telling me it used to be a pasta factory. Above the restaurant are artists lofts and there's also a gallery space.

My friend, Jessica, suggested we meet there for her birthday drinks. It was a fantastic idea.

San Lorenzo is a serious schlep from my side of town. While in the area I had to stop by SAID for some chocolate.

We had a great time sitting at the bar. The cocktails are excellent (Jessica and I had Moscow Mules). My wine expert friend appreciated the variety of Sicilian wines and the food was delicious. Our waiter was super friendly.

I really like the decor and the vibe. I will definitely return.

Pastificio San Lorenzo
via Tiburtina 196 (near Piazzale Verano)
+39 0697273519
Closed Monday
Open lunch and dinner Tues-Fri & Sun
Open dinner only Saturday

Some dessert for the lady celebrating her birthday.

Prada and a serious case of Spring Fever

It's only February.

During the last few days we've had highs in the mid-60s here in Rome.

The store windows are full of pretty clothes for Spring. Why must I be tempted so?!

For the first time in a while, the clothes coming down the runaway were fun and optimistic.

I'm kind of obsessed with these Prada shoes. I don't have Prada money.

Every year Prada does some variation of a Mary Jane. I have a pair of black patent leather Mary Janes I bought over ten years ago. I bought them as a treat to myself after getting completely screwed over at work (long story). I couldn't afford them back then either. I convinced myself, cost-per-wear, the Pradas would make more sense in the long run.

And they did. All the cheaper shoes I had are long gone. My Mary Janes are still in excellent condition despite getting quite the work out in L.A.

If I could figure out how to walk on cobble streets, I would wear them more often here.

I can't wait until Spring fruits and vegetable arrive at the Farmers Markets.

Warmer weather means a return to sitting outside for aperitivi or lunch/dinner with friends.

I have a few big things on the horizon this Spring. Our movie Jumping The Broom opens (ahem, May 6th, Mother's Day) and I hope to move to a new neighborhood. I will miss my current apartment but with yet another bar opening in Campo, I cannot renew my contract.

I know we still have the rest of February and the month of March before we can start packing away the winter clothes. However, I've noticed the days are already getting longer.

What are you looking forward to this Spring?

Homemade Nutella Banana Pancakes

I cannot believe it's already the fifth anniversary of this glorious event!!

Thanks to the wonderful Michelle at Bleeding Espresso and Sara at MsAdventures in Italy, all across the world people will be enjoying World Nutella Day. Sara and Michelle will post a round of up all the yummy goodness on Monday, February 7th.

This year I decided to make Nutella Banana Pancakes. Before I moved to Rome I always used pancake mix. Then when I realized I could make them from scratch and not have to pay four euros for a tiny box of mix at Castroni, I never looked back.

It's so easy, no more preservatives and they taste better. Not sure why the heck I didn't make pancakes from scratch earlier.

Here's the recipe adapted from THE BIG BOOK OF BREAKFAST COOKBOOK.






Basic Pancake Recipe

* 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
* 2 tablespoons sugar
* 2 teaspoons baking powder
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* 2 large eggs
* 1 1/2 cups milk
* 3 tablespoons melted butter
* 1 or 2 bananas smashed
* 1 or 2 tablespoons Nutella

DIRECTIONS
1. Crack eggs into small bowl and whisk until foamy.

2. Whisk in milk and melted butter.

3. Place flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in medium bowl and stir together.

4. Gradually add dry ingredients, whisking briefly after each addition, just until smooth. Do not overmix.

5. Stir in bananas, Nutella

6. Heat griddle. If using electric, aim for 375; if using stove, heat until water flicked on surface bounces but does not evaporate immediately.

7. Brush griddle with oil that has a high burning point; vegetable or canola will work well. (I use butter)

8. Using 1/4 cup measure for small pancakes, 1/3 cup measure for larger, scoop batter out of bowl.

9. From about 3” above griddle, pour batter in solid stream onto griddle.

10. If batter is a little thick, spread it out so that cake is roughly 1/4" tall

11. Watch cake closely; once edges are dry, and a few dry-edged bubbles have formed on top, check the cake’s underside. It should be roughly the color of honey.

12. Flip cake, cook until golden brown.

13. Serve immediately.

TIPS:

Don't overmix the batter
Use a nonstick skillet or griddle
Use a spatual with a nonstick coating.
Turn pancakes only once

Snapshot Rome: Drink your eggs! - Trionfale Market

A year later, I'm still exploring my market.

I used to buy my eggs at the supermarket until I "discovered" the egg vendors. The prices are cheaper and the eggs are fresher. What the heck took me so long?

I met up with Erica at the market last Friday. She wanted to check out the fish. Afterward, we stopped by my egg vendor.

Erica wrote a lovely ODE to the egg and the memories of her Roman nonna feeding her a raw egg "shake" for her merenda (Italian for a mid-afternoon snack).

The eggs marked "Da Bere" (to drink) are the freshest of the fresh. You have to eat them within a short period of time.

The vendor was speaking Italian very quickly, so I missed the explanation regarding how these eggs are different from the others.

She said the eggs come from the Le Marche region.

Their eggs are delicious. I can totally taste the difference between their eggs and the ones I used to buy at the supermarket.

Trionfale is not the closest market to my house but it's worth the schlep.

Made In Italy, Food & Stories...a fantastic cookbook

I know I've said several times I'm not going to buy anymore cookbooks. I couldn't help myself.

I heard great things about this book. While waiting for a friend, I started to skim though it, then bought it.

It's excellent. Some of the recipes are beyond my culinary level but I found it accessible.

Giorgio Locatelli grew up in a small town near Milan and has been cooking since he was five. He owns a very successful restaurant in London. Most of the recipes have a Northern Italy influence.

This is more than just a book of recipes. Locatelli is an excellent writer. He gives great insight into the history of various foods/recipes. The book is well illustrated and I loved reading about his family.

It took me a while to read this book. I wanted to savor every single page. If you love Italian cooking, especially Northern Italian cuisine, I recommend this book.

Renato e Luisa restaurant

My first trip to this restaurant in my area was with my infamous Italian friend, G, and a friend of ours who was visiting from L.A.
I wish I had written down what we ate it was so freaking good. We ordered three of the daily specials. I remember there was one fish dish, a ravioli dish and a spaghetti dish with a tomato based sauce.

We barely spoke as we were too busy eating. The restaurant was packed and the service a little scattered. We didn't mind. The food was worth the wait. The crowd was a mix of locals and tourists. The restaurant is located on a side street near Largo Argentina. It's tiny. There are only a few tables.

Renato e Luisa
Quelli della Taverna
Via dei Barbieri, 25
+(39)06-68-69-660
http://www.renatoeluisa.it/

Places to eat near the Spanish Steps?

I'm asked this question a lot. I run errands in that area but other than GiNa's, I never eat around there.

GiNa's a great place for lunch, especially if you're craving a salad. They have a fantastic selection.

The decor is hip and bright and it's excellent people watching. The crowd is a mix of chic Roman mommies and fab singles with Birkins, Chanel's 2.55, etc., business lunches, high school students from the private school nearby, and the occasional tourist. Prices are moderate, especially for the area. Reservations are recommended. It can get packed, especially during nice weather and sales season.

My friend Shelley wrote about GiNa a few years ago HERE. At that time she raved about their picnic lunches. I don't know they still do that. I've only been to GiNa during the fall/winter.

The New York Times also wrote about their picnic lunches.

GiNa
Via San Sebastianello, 7/A
Piazza di Spagna
www.ginaroma.com

If you have a favorite place for lunch (and/or dinner) near the Spanish Steps, please feel free to share in the comments.

Flashback Friday - Sandra Lee's Kwanzaa Cake

Oh LAWD!

This abomination is probably one of the funniest and scariest things I have ever seen.

There is no such think as a Kwanzaa cake. Earlier, she made a Hanukkah cake because she had converted to Judism for her ex-husband. Never mind that nothing in the cake was Kosher.

She's dating New York Governor-elect Andrew Cuomo. Is Mrs. Lee going start screwing up Italian food? I could see her taking a can of Spaghettios throwing some grated cheese on top and saying "Here's a lovely semi-homemade Eye-talian dinner!" Her "tablescape" would look like a trattoria on crack and God only knows what type of hideous cocktail she would make.

Some people watch her show as part of a drinking game. That number is not enough to explain why her shows/books are so popular. She not a cook or a chef. I don't get it, I really don't.

I have no idea which part of this "cake" is more offensive. What do Corn Nuts (WTF?!) have to do with Kwanzaa? How can using all store bought goods represent a celebration of the harvest? My mind is blown. This woman is making millions a year.

Yep, making millions and doesn't even write these "recipes" herself.

Jezebel.com wrote a POST about the woman behind this and other lovely treats.

Have a great weekend.

Favorite Things: Clementini

Never had these until I moved to Italy. They are grown mostly in Southern Italy, Morocco and South America. They are delicious.

At the market I go to, (Trionfale) you can buy a kilo for 1 euro. This morning I noticed they were over 3 euros per kilo at the Campo dei Fiori market. This is why I walk all the way to Trionfale...over triple the price? Uhm no.

No, Thanksgiving is not celebrated in Italy.

Many Americans ask me if Thanksgiving is celebrated here.

Why would it be? It's an American holiday!

However, several of my American friends, who are married to Italians, will be hosting Thanksgiving lunches this weekend.

Turkeys have been ordered from the butcher, wines have been selected and I can't wait. The food is a mix of favorites from the States (stuffing!!) and Italian dishes.

I hope everyone Stateside has a fantastic Thanksgiving Holiday!